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    Les Anciens Combattants at 1435 Santiago del Estero

    Old world dining in a beautiful old stately townhome, with a courtyard, part museum, part elegant dining club, like stepping back in time to another time, the lost grandeur of a bygone era, to experience Bygone Old World Grandeur in old Buenos Aries. I had wanted for many years on many trips to go to this historic dining club, a tribute to a WWI military alliance between France and Argentina, but was hesitant to do so because of the neighborhood getting worse and worse over the years and not wanting to be there after dark. Les Anciens Combattants, ‘the ancient combatants’ is located at 1435 Santiago del Estero (Talchuano extended) past Independencia and past the highway overpass. Dicey area these days and low end streetwalker central. Fortunately, Les Anciens Combattants is open on Sunday afternoons. Nevertheless, the front door is kept locked so you have to be patient after you hit the buzzer to be admitted. Best to make a reservation beforehand by calling ahead, 4305-1701 or via email, lesacombattants@gmail.com. On a glorious afternoon we were admitted by the delightful young woman who turned out to be both the hostess and waitress for us for a mid afternoon meal. She strongly recommended the prize fixe 3 course meal for 490p. For less than $15 we got a tasty quiche Lorraine to start, followed by a poached local fish with a shrimp sauce and oven roasted potatoes, and ending with a dessert crepe. A complimentary glass of chilled Kira was included. The Chef, Laura Ramadori, is classic French trained and has talent given her performance on this visit, and the difficulties getting the proper French ingredients in BA. The service was top drawer and the dining room elegant, as was the tableware. Will no doubt look to return on another Sunday afternoon.

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